The Coast to Coast hike is a 192 mile hike across England from St Bees to Robin Hood's bay. I did this trail between June 20th and July 3rd in 2023.
Day 11
Day 11 was supposed to be a 23 mile day. I decided to cheat this day and took a taxi from Richmond to Danby Wiske, then hiked the portion from Danby Wiske to Ingleby Cross (technically, Ingleby Arncliffe). I can't say that I regret this decision. This was probably the flattest and dare I say, the most boring section of the whole C2C. When the taxi dropped me off, I was immediately hit with the strong smell of cow s#!+ fertilizer and was grateful I didn't have a planned overnight stop here. My biggest mistake was leaving Richmond too soon. I only had a 9 mile walk and had a couple hours to kill when I got to Ingleby Cross before I could check into my B&B. Just before you get to Ingleby Cross, you have to play frogger to get across the A19 highway. There is a big gas station there with a nice convenience store and a place to sit. I hung out there drinking coffee for a few hours before heading over to the Ingleby House Farm B&B for the evening. I was super jealous of my friends from Oklahoma that took a rest day in Richmond and were going to see the new Indiana Jones movie.
At 66 Frenchgate B&B. I hadn't quite worked up to a full English Breakfast. I sure do miss having those mushrooms every morning.
I missed my kitties at home
She liked the head scratches
Dave and Liz
The entire North American contingent together for the last time. Oklahoma Gang in the front, Washington and Canadian Okanagon back row. The Oklahoma gang would be spending a zero miles day at the excellent 66 Frenchgate while the rest of us were heading out.
Hedgerow in Danby Wiske.
It rained for a few minutes
Ever see a trail through Barley fields before?
The trail gets pretty overgrown in this section, and this isn't the worst of it. Wearing pants and not shorts is a good idea through here.
This gate is pretty famous on the Coast to Coast facebook group.
Sadly though.....
...besides the cool barley fields, this was about the most interesting thing to see in this section of the trail.
It was really flat
And a lot of road walking
But you make the best of it and push on.
The barley fields were cool to see though.
This is the sign you see directly after crossing the A19
My room at the Ingleby House Farm B&B
Day 11
Day 11. Blue section gladly skipped.
Day 12
Day 12 was a departure from the flat and (in my opinion) boring section through the Vail of Mobray and a return to some climbs as I entered the North York Moors. The terrain and views were an immediate improvement from yesterday.
Only 50 miles to go!
I wasn't sure what the fence was for. There were these small gates for something to either get in or out of the fenced area. I mentioned this on my Youtube video and a user by the name of @richardhunter7363 had this to say about it. "The fence segregates a pheasant breeding area - the birds are bred and grow in the enclosure, safe from predators (foxes) - as they get bigger they start to leave the area through the gaps in the fence but can return at night UNTIL one day, they are too big to get back in so then they spread out onto the moors, just in time for The Glorious 12th (Aug) which is the start of the open season on birds!!!"
It was around here that i could see the North Sea for the first time.
Part of the Cleveland Way, the trail was in excellent condition. Very enjoyable section to walk.
Lots of variety. Moors then woods for a while. This area looked like a place Robin Hood would jump out and steal from a rich passerby.
Very lovely woods.
You can't really see it in these images because it was still pretty distant, but you could see the ocean from here.
Back up on the moors.
The heather was amazing!
I thought these were blueberries but I found out they are called bilberries. Closely related to blueberries, they are native to northern Europe, Asia, the northern United States, and Canada. So yeah, basically the same thing we have here that we call blueberries.
Approaching the Wainstones.
Wainstones. It was pretty windy through here.
The Wainstones.
Almost to Clay Bank Top
Myself and another couple hikers Mike and his son (didn't catch his name) called the hotel we were all staying at (also called the Wainstones) and they (someone from the hotel) drove up to Clay Bank Top and brought us back to the hotel. The three of us had the same 14 day hiking schedule and had leapfrogged one another the whole trip.
A nice fish and chips for dinner.
Day 12
Day 12. The blue line is the path I took. This avoids the un-necessary up and down through a part of this section and still lets you re-join the trail right before you get to the Wainstones. Hike your own hike, but also, hike smarter not harder.
Day 12 - Alternate detail
Day 13
This was a long day. About 18.5 miles across the top of a section of Moors that make up a large part of the North York Moors National Park. The trail utilizes an old railway which meant there would be no bogs to deal with, but it was a lot of dirt road walking.
Dave and Liz at Clay Bank Top
The trail from Clay Bank Top quickly climbs back up to the top of the moors.
It was pretty windy again. I'd hate to have to do this section in the pouring rain, it would be miserable with the wind.
The trail intersects and utilizes an old railway (Farndale Railway) for most of the way between here and Blakey Ridge.
I've seen this part of the hike described as bleak.
Yep. Lots of road walking today.
Finally. Made it to Blakey Ridge and the Lion Inn. Had a nice break from the wind and had lunch with Dave and Liz who were right behind me on the trail.
Back on the trail and not too far past the Lion Inn is the Fat Betty monument. It is said to be good luck to leave Fat Betty a small treat.
Always watching...
Will it ever end?
Ugggg! My dawgs were barkin'! You can see the road I had just walked down, and that was just a small section for the day.
Finally made it to Glaisdale
The Arncliffe Arms. My stop for the night. Just one more day to go!
Day 13
Day 13
Day 14 - Finale
The final day was bittersweet. On one hand, I was really, really ready to be done, on the other hand, I knew I was going to miss being out on the trail every day.
Beggars Bridge
A Lover's Promise Legend has it that young lovers Tom Ferres, son of a poor sheep farmer, and Agnes Richardson, daughter of a wealthy Glaisdale landowner, were prevented from marrying because of Tom's poverty. Leaving to seek his fortune at sea, Tom tried in vain to cross the flooded river to meet with Agnes on the eve of his departure. He left without a farewell kiss. Having survived sea battles against the Spanish Armada, Tom became involved in piracy in the West Indies. He returned to England a wealthy man, married his beloved Agnes and had this bridge built to prevent future young lovers from being parted by the river.
A ballad written by a Mrs Dawson recounting the tale ends with the lines: The rover came back from a far distant land, And he claimed of the maiden her long-promised hand: But he built, ere he won her, the bridge of his vow, And the lovers of Egton pass over it now.
Well worn path on sandstone blocks
Egton Bridge
Egton Bridge
Dirt Road just outside of Grosmont
I never expected to see so many places have Dr Pepper as I saw in England. My kind of place! This was the last honesty box I saw.
Entering Grosmont
The path out of Grosmont was a very steep road walk back up to the top of the moors. I think it was about an 800 foot climb.
Lots of up!
Phew! Back on a real trail!
The heather was really nice.
Dropping down to Littlebeck
Crossing the road at the hairpin turn in Littlebeck
I rarely hear mention of this next section, but I found the next few miles to be the best of the entire C2C. Little Beck Wood has my heart.
Very lovely section of woods along Little Beck. It had very well kept trails.
I've never seen anything like this done with a fallen log. Someone spent a long time getting that log so smooth.
The environmentalists and cairn kickers would have a conniption fit if someone did anything like this on any of our trails here in the States.
Beautiful boardwalks in Little Beck Wood
Approaching the Hermitage.
"The hermit of Falling Foss A short walk from Falling Foss is a cave carved out of an enormous boulder. Known locally as 'The Hermitage', and dating from as far back as the 18th century, it was once the secluded home of a hermit. The woods provided food, fuel, shelter and building materials – but imagine the fortitude required to live such a reclusive life, deep in the woodland shadows. "
Last bit of boardwalk before climbing up to the last of the moors.
The last of the moors. The North Sea was getting very close now! Look at that heather!
Heading down from the moors.
Hello there!
OK, who thinks up these names? Dr Seuss?
Not far now!
You walk through this very well manicured Caravan (Mobile Home) Park right before you get to the bluff overlooking the North Sea.
Hiking south along the bluff
Looking north
I heard a crack of thunder and saw a dark cloud roll in behind me. The C2C had one last trick up it's sleeve!
It started raining the hardest I had see since I had been in the UK. Thunder, Lightening, Hail. An exclamation point on the end of an incredible two week journey.
First view of Robin Hood's Bay. The rain was starting to let up but I was soaked at this point.
My B&B was along the path into Robin Hood's Bay so I checked in and showered and changed into some dry clothes before heading down to the end of my trail.
I still had the rock I had been carrying since St Bees
It was time....
....to give it....
....a new home.
Then I sat down and had a pint. The End.
Day 14 - Finale
Day 14
Final Thoughts
I really enjoyed myself on this trip except for the times when I didn't, LOL. People have asked me what was the one best thing that stood out to me on this trip and I have to say the people I met. Other hikers, B&B owners, everyone really. Everyone was very friendly and it will have a lasting impression on what I think about when I think of the UK and England in particular.
The trail itself was a great experience. It was mostly awesome (my buddy Craig will cringe when he sees I used the word awesome, LOL). The only thing I can say I disliked about it was some of it was a little monotonous. Lots of sheep, sheep shit, and sheep fields. If you look past that however, and look at the beauty of the landscape and the crazy idea that you are literally walking from one side of England to the other, well, how can you complain about any of that?
Awesome 🙂 photos and re-cap, Jay. Thank you for sharing – and congratulations!
Thanks Theresa!
Looks like an amazing trip.
Thanks Isaac. It was a fun time.
Jay, What a wonderful, awesome journey! Thanks for sharing!
Ahh, thanks Linda. I miss you guys!